Inevitably we have a disturbed night as we need to be up early - a combination of howling dogs and hot and cold running trains. At 5.30 our "bed tea" arrives - no milk but so much sugar that a spoon stands vertical. We gather on the car park and learn that the dogs had been spooked by a wild elephant in the scrub outside the perimeter. Our jeep drivers hold an impromptu union meeting before deciding that we can go.
We drive out into the misty jungle where at first there is little to see. Our party arrive at the first watch tower where there are a couple of bison out in the gloom. Fortunately there are a few birds to look at which keeps us amused until it is time to move to the next watchtower. The sun is now burning off the mist and we can see further and start to spot a few more birds. There are a lot of peacocks making quite a racket as they perch surprisingly high up in the trees. 
Our guide announces time to depart and we get back on the jeeps. As we head along the track we suddenly see two rhinos ahead. They disappear into the scrub but we are soon alongside one of them. Apparently they have been fighting and this one looks to have come off worst.
We drive on a few yards then suddenly the other one appears on the track ahead looking rather aggressive. At this point the driver stalled the engine. Fortunately the rhino steps aside and obligingly poses for photos.A quick breakfast back at the lodge then it is time to board the boneshakers for a ride back to Siliguri through rural North Bengal. It is difficult to decide whether being able to see the oncoming traffic hazards is preferable to playing Blind Man's Buff in the dark as we did on the outward journey. Back at the Cindrella preparations are in full swing for a wedding. Boneshaker 1 manages to tear down part of the welcoming arch. We grab a not very quick lunch as we watch South Africa turn the screw on England in the ODI.
Next up is a trip on the DHR in the dining car. At Siliguri Junction Tusker is ready with a short train and we climb on board. Dinner is two sittings and we are in batch 2 so we enjoy the ride through the suburbs and across the plain to Sukna, where we swop coaches. The thing is done with a certain amount of style as we enjoy a four course meal and a seemingly endless supply of beer. One forgets the joys of eating soup on a lurching train.By the time we reach our destination it is dark and we are treated to the sight of a Darjeeling B class running with its headlamp on main beam.
When the boneshakers get us back to the Cindrella the wedding party is warming up nicely, and as we have been invited as a group, we hang around taking photos of the groom arriving to a barrage of fireworks and a very enthusiastic set of drummers. After a bit of ritual we all move into the specially constructed wedding garden - like something out of the Arabian nights. The eating and (non alcoholic) drinking started straight away and we were chided for not eating enough.
In due course the bride and groom are invited to mount a podium which begins to revolve as they are sprayed with petals and exchange garlands. 
We did not want to outstay our welcome so left the main party but were ambushed by the paan stall where we were talked into sampling their wares, R had silver leaf added to hers. Very interesting! We had a nightcap on the terrace with some of the group and all agreed that it had been quite a day.
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